Food Diaries: Chronicling The Kolkata Biryani

What visuals does the word 'Biryani' evoke? 

 A plate full of Kolkata Biryani

Steaming hot rice, cooked to perfection in an earthen pot, coming alive with the reddish hues of whole and dry spices, succulent meat chunks, sublime flavours, and decadent saffron, cashews and raisins strewn on a bed of caramelised onions. I am certain you are imagining yourself in a splendid 'durbar'. Why I chose to write about biryanis will be revealed in the words that follow.

It was one of those lazy weekend afternoons. I was all by myself, in my own quiet and safe space devoid of chaos, or expectations, the need to compete or prove anything. Peaceful, right? However, this meditative state was also accompanied by acute hunger, and then the cravings for something simple, earthy, yet satisfying.

I love trying traditional regional cuisine, which wasn't always the case in my young and foolish days. In those days, eating out was synonymous with ordering junk. Thanks to age, I have wisened and matured. My taste and aesthetics are more refined, soulful, and self-satisfying.

'Shondharuchi' is a restaurant in Bopal, a fast-developing satellite town of Ahmedabad city, serving authentic Bengali food. I give them full credit for introducing me to the authentically delicious Bengali Bhetki thali delivered hot, fresh, and authentic. A generous portion of rice accompanied by fish curry, 'mooger' or moong dal - cooked in a very simple manner, but not deviating from its flavour, and the aloo posto - again a dish characterised by simplicity, cooked in a paste of turmeric powder, green chillies, and poppy seeds.

The overall presentation, and its flavourful authenticity, generous portions, have motivated me to order it multiple times. However, I had my fill of it one day and decided to go for a slightly fusion approach. That is when the 'Kolkata Biryani' struck me as a suitable option.

Unpacking the steam-covered transparent box with frenzied excitement, I expected a typical Northern and Mughlai style biryani, oily, spicy, rich - qualities that elevate taste and the eater's weight. Instead, there was a pleasant surprise waiting for me - literally. 

A container with generous portions of discoloured rice lay before me, no loud orange and rust overtones formed by ghee, oil, and decadent spices. It felt like staring at an empty canvas marred by vivid shades colliding with one another.

Instead, a sweet, but not overpowering, fragrance wafted from the slightly browned rice. A perfectly boiled egg and a potato peeped from underneath. Deep inside the density of the Bengali staple lay the prize - a large and succulent chicken leg, mildly cooked and delicious. Indian food never ceases to amuse me. Expect the unexpected!

Often synonymous with spicy and oily fare, Indian food represents a diversity found across continents, not countries. A dish like chicken biryani, too, has a vast family of cousins! So typically Indian. 

The scent and taste of nutmeg and other whole spices came through beautifully. That is what gave the Kolkata Biryani its unique character, so different from its Northern and Deccan relatives.

So, the next time you crave biryani, give this beauty from Kolkata a try. She will not disappoint!

Until next time!

Relying on Home Cooks: A trend that is here to stay!

Photo by Stefan Vladimirov on Unsplash

In the past few years, my food aesthetic and sensibilities have swayed towards the soulful and authentic. A lavish 5-star buffet is of no interest to me anymore. It is too much work - getting dressed in high heels, for instance, to blend in with the ambience surrounded by people I have never seen and will never see after we pay the bill loaded with taxes for the costly meal.

Photo by Alice Kotlyarenko on Unsplash

Now, I relish tying my hair up in a messy bun, wearing my oversized pullover, putting on some lipstick and sipping wine, chatting away with my mum while my Dad quietly watches television, and our dogs and cat cuddle up close to us, creating the perfect atmosphere, one filled with warmth, joy and family time- the very essence of life! Pure bliss!

This year, I battled the cold, work, school and other excuses to celebrate the New Year with my parents who live in an art deco-style building in the busy lanes of South Bombay (yes, it will always be ‘Bombay’ for me). So, as soon as I realised that my daughter’s me and my 6-year-old daughter, who is more like a best friend and adventure partner to me, had been generous enough to grant their students a long weekend, I hurriedly booked my tickets on my favourite non-stop train from Ahmedabad to Mumbai (yes, it’s Mumbai now).

Scented candles named after colonial ports and exotic destinations, burn their flames dispersing their wondrous fragrance, bright lanterns sway in the breeze, our garden is dotted with hibiscus flowers in peach, red and white among other wildflowers, lichens and mosses are teeming with tiny snails.

I wanted to make New Year’s Eve as close as possible to a Christmas feast spread. So, what do you do when you are craving a wholesome New Year’s feast but don’t want to do the cooking? The answer is ‘home cooks”. Thanks to the power of Whatsapp and Social Media and delivery startups such as Swiggy and Zomato, home cooks have access to the market demand for home cooked food that is easy on the pocket and does not compromise on quality and quantity.

Aiya Patrao! is a home-cooked food venture started by a Malyali-Goan husband-wife duo in the warmth of their kitchen. After going through their Instagram profile loaded with sumptuous delights, I knew my work just got easier. I contacted Ms Marian, the Goan half of the duo, and she was most generous and patient in curating the festive menu. Simultaneously, I convinced my mother and father to experience the vibrancy of the Malabar coast and appreciate our country’s diverse heritage.

 

Photo by khloe arledge on Unsplash

Photo by allan ronson on Unsplash

I was excited to order the prawn balchao, an authentic Portuguese dish that has made a special place for itself in Goan cuisine. "We use Goa jaggery to give it a dull sweetness", Marian assured me when I let her know my concerns about overly sweet prawn recheado. Her other recommendations were the Goan kingfish curry and the chicken ishtu and appam to represent her Malyali husband's heritage. The combination sounded eclectic and she was confident we would love it."Learning about food is a lifelong process", she quipped.

Before we knew it, the blazing Bombay sun had subsided giving way to a pleasant afternoon breeze much like the extinguishing embers after a bright fire. The doorbell rang and a deivery executive from 'Porter' - a private delivery service home cooks swear by - was at the door.

As we unpacked the food containers and laid them out on our dining table, it came to life with a burst of colours and aromas - fresh seafood, the sweet spiciness of the calamari nestled in the Goan recheado sauce, subdued by the delicate balance of the fish caldeen curry. The chicken stew ‘ishtu’ and fluffy appams weren’t far behind. Only, the view of the foamy and playful sea seemed to be missing.

Photo by Prince Abid on Unsplash

Freshly baked plum cake with just the right dash of rum from the local bakery unearthed some delicious childhood memories. The sweet port wine concluded the most beautiful New Year’s Eve. In the past few years, people's food aesthetic and sensibilities have swayed towards the soulful and authentic. A lavish 5-star buffet is of little interest to those who want to explore the authentic flavours and make it about the experience rather than the place or the menu.

Aiyo Patrao delivers throughout South Mumbai and western suburbs. Give them a shoutout at @aiyo.patrao on Instagram and for some 'real' food!

The East Indian Bazaar: Experiencing Mumbai’s East Indian Food Heritage

East Indian exhibit owners engaged in conversation

While scrolling through my social media feed, hoping to find something interesting to do during my rare visit to Mumbai, an Instagram post by the Mobai Gaothan Panchayat caught my eye. The vividly coloured graphic screamed EAST INDIAN BAZAAR and voila! I knew I had to make a trip. 

Pickles made from meat and seafood are a staple in the East Indian diet

The East Indians are the original inhabitants of the island of ‘Bombay’ who were converted to Christianity by missionaries during colonial times. Over the centuries, their community has evolved, changed, adapted to the changing times and yet maintained their authenticity and distinct identity by conserving their culture and heritage - a blend of native, Hindu and Christian traditions. Their food exudes the textures, colours and aromas of this diverse blend that I was particularly excited to explore at the bazaar.

 

On a pleasant November evening, in the buzzing bylanes of Bandra West,  a steady stream of people looking their Sunday best made their way to the campus of the popular ‘Andrews’ college. In a humble enclosure, a dozen odd tables were lined up and vibrantly coloured with crochet handicrafts, shiny trinkets, colourful toys, books East Indian cooking and Christmas recipes, and pickles; others served hot food takeaway favourites like beef curry, tongue roast, pork vindaloo, mutton ‘paya’, potato chops, chicken hot dog rolls, fish balls; a counter or two was stacked with fugiyas (lightly sweetened flour balls fried and served warm), mawa cupcakes, and chocolate donuts, to coax parents and grandparents to take home for the kids. 

From Regina’s beef curry, pork sorpotel, and tongue roast, Susan auntie’s chicken and potato chops and pickles, to auntie Maria’s sweetmeats, visitors were spoilt for choice. As I browsed the setup, I was greeted by gregarious East Indian home cooks, entrepreneurs, uncles and aunties, mummies and grannies who beamed proudly at their displays, inviting the visitors to take a look. I made a dive for Susan’s potato chops generously filled with lightly - spiced and juicy minced chicken and mashed potato, and a few packets of fresh fugiyas. 

Potato chops: A favourite East Indian starter filled with minced chicken & potato

Regina aunty persuaded us to try her sun-dried fish and shrimp, a staple in coastal communities. My friend obliged and grabbed a packet of sun dried ‘bombil’ fish (Bombay duck) sticks, a box of mutton curry, and soft white sannas (dumplings made from rice - a common feature of coastal food that accompany savoury curries). The wide range of pickles was a sweet surprise displaying an eclectic mix of fruits, vegetables, meat and seafood. I could only imagine the number of delicious flavours that resulted from these well-balanced permutations and combinations. We were also introduced to the ‘letri’ - a sweet and colourful concoction of rice, coconut, and vermicelli which is made for special occasions. 

Books on East Indian cooking and delicacies by Abigail Rebello

The 'letri' - a traditional sweet dish

As we made it to our final table selling traditional and brightly-coloured East Indian 'lugda’ or saree, I concluded that East Indian food mainly consists of decadent dishes, and comfort food, rich in meat, grease, and fat, making it flavourful and wholesome. But, above all, it is the East Indian people themselves that made this whole experience wonderful thanks to their endearing personalities, cheerful vibes, and a great love for food!