What visuals does the word 'Biryani' evoke?
A plate full of Kolkata Biryani
Steaming hot rice, cooked to perfection in an earthen pot, coming alive with the reddish hues of whole and dry spices, succulent meat chunks, sublime flavours, and decadent saffron, cashews and raisins strewn on a bed of caramelised onions. I am certain you are imagining yourself in a splendid 'durbar'. Why I chose to write about biryanis will be revealed in the words that follow.
It was one of those lazy weekend afternoons. I was all by myself, in my own quiet and safe space devoid of chaos, or expectations, the need to compete or prove anything. Peaceful, right? However, this meditative state was also accompanied by acute hunger, and then the cravings for something simple, earthy, yet satisfying.
I love trying traditional regional cuisine, which wasn't always the case in my young and foolish days. In those days, eating out was synonymous with ordering junk. Thanks to age, I have wisened and matured. My taste and aesthetics are more refined, soulful, and self-satisfying.
'Shondharuchi' is a restaurant in Bopal, a fast-developing satellite town of Ahmedabad city, serving authentic Bengali food. I give them full credit for introducing me to the authentically delicious Bengali Bhetki thali delivered hot, fresh, and authentic. A generous portion of rice accompanied by fish curry, 'mooger' or moong dal - cooked in a very simple manner, but not deviating from its flavour, and the aloo posto - again a dish characterised by simplicity, cooked in a paste of turmeric powder, green chillies, and poppy seeds.
The overall presentation, and its flavourful authenticity, generous portions, have motivated me to order it multiple times. However, I had my fill of it one day and decided to go for a slightly fusion approach. That is when the 'Kolkata Biryani' struck me as a suitable option.
Unpacking the steam-covered transparent box with frenzied excitement, I expected a typical Northern and Mughlai style biryani, oily, spicy, rich - qualities that elevate taste and the eater's weight. Instead, there was a pleasant surprise waiting for me - literally.
A container with generous portions of discoloured rice lay before me, no loud orange and rust overtones formed by ghee, oil, and decadent spices. It felt like staring at an empty canvas marred by vivid shades colliding with one another.
Instead, a sweet, but not overpowering, fragrance wafted from the slightly browned rice. A perfectly boiled egg and a potato peeped from underneath. Deep inside the density of the Bengali staple lay the prize - a large and succulent chicken leg, mildly cooked and delicious. Indian food never ceases to amuse me. Expect the unexpected!
Often synonymous with spicy and oily fare, Indian food represents a diversity found across continents, not countries. A dish like chicken biryani, too, has a vast family of cousins! So typically Indian.
The scent and taste of nutmeg and other whole spices came through beautifully. That is what gave the Kolkata Biryani its unique character, so different from its Northern and Deccan relatives.
So, the next time you crave biryani, give this beauty from Kolkata a try. She will not disappoint!
Until next time!
